This morning we had planned to get up early and head to the famous bamboo grove to beat the crowds… but our bodies had other ideas. After several big walking days, we were in need of a proper sleep-in, so we made it to the station around 9am – Jessie had crab-shaped bread for breakfast and Craig tried the famous 7/11 egg sandwich!

We arrived in Arashiyama to picture-perfect blue skies and the most stunning surroundings. The neighbourhood streets are absolutely gorgeous – every house follows a shared aesthetic (thanks to strict local covenants) and whether it’s a lush garden or just a few pots, everything is beautifully kept. The vibe is peaceful, curated, and so charming.

Our first mission was to find the kimono rental store, which was tucked down a quieter street (thankfully!). We made Jessie an appointment for 11am, and with half an hour to spare, we went off to explore and grab some treats. The main street was bustling but fun – full of interesting shops, restaurants, and plenty of people-watching opportunities. Jessie ordered her ice cream in Japanese, which delighted the vendor, who then complimented my lemon-print t-shirt, calling it “kawaii” (cute). Thanks to my 70-day Duolingo streak before arriving, I knew what she meant and was able to reply – it was a lovely little interaction, and a reminder that even a small amount of language goes a long way here.

At 11am we returned to the kimono store and the excitement began. Jessie chose her kimono and hairstyle, and while Craig waited outside, we were ushered upstairs. The hair styling station was a joy – Jessie was absolutely gleeful, and the little girl next to her looked just as thrilled. Once her hair was done, it was time to dress. While not quite as complex as an adult kimono fitting, it was still an impressive process. She eventually came down the stairs very slowly in the traditional Japanese shoes (which, as predicted, didn’t last long), and looked utterly adorable. The store took a few photos for their website, we got to snap a few as well, and then we were ready to head out for the day – our very own mini maiko in tow.

We began with the bamboo forest. After grabbing a few photos amongst the crowd, we noticed the rickshaws nearby and decided to enquire. While pricey, the ride included a personal guide and photographer, and gave us a break from navigating the crowd. Best decision! Jessie and I rode with Ren, and Craig with Masa – both of whom were incredibly fit and knowledgeable. They took us to quieter photo spots, gave us fun facts (did you know each ring on a bamboo stalk represents just ONE day of growth? They reach full height in just two months!), and chatted with us throughout the journey. When Craig asked about summer, Masa replied with total honesty: “I hate summer.” Same, Masa. Same.

After our ride, we grabbed lunch at a ramen restaurant where we all had chicken-based dishes. Craig got some fish cakes too, and while trying to say “oishii” (delicious), he accidentally said “moishi” (doctor), which turned out to be oddly fitting when the wasabi went up his nose…

Post-lunch we headed to Tenryu-ji, a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site with Zen gardens, a large lake, and blooming rhododendrons and azaleas (though not quite the blanket of azaleas I’d envisioned). Still, it was absolutely peaceful and serene.

From there, after realising Craig left his hat at restaurant and he went back to retrieve it, it was on to the Iwatayama Monkey Park! We crossed the scenic river and made it just in time for last admissions. The climb to the top was steep (again, not an ideal summer activity), but so worth it. The monkeys were adorable – small, fluffy, with red faces, and refreshingly chill. Unlike other places I’ve been (Bali, Cambodia, Malaysia…), these monkeys weren’t aggressive at all. They mostly ignored us unless you were in the feeding “rest house,” where you could hand them bits of apple or peanuts. We took in the view of Kyoto, posed with the giant banana statue, and soaked in the peaceful energy before beginning our descent.

After returning Jessie’s kimono, we made our way back to the train station. Unfortunately, the ride home was an absolute crush. The first part of the journey was standing room only, but by the second stop, we were literally packed in by station staff who were pushing people into the carriages so the doors could shut. It was overwhelming, especially for Jessie – sandwiched tightly between Craig and me, surrounded by towering adults. We were all relieved when we finally arrived at Kyoto Station. It took a lot out of us.

Once we’d recovered, we went to sort our Shinkansen tickets for the next morning – including reserving space for our oversized luggage (as the hotel had warned us it could take a couple of days to arrive separately in Hakone). The machines were proving tricky and the queues long, so I decided to try again later.

Jessie and Craig headed back to the hotel while I did a quick shopping trip at Don Quixote and GU. Don Qui was wild – they have everything – and I walked away with a fun haul, including a selection of different flavoured Kit Kats. GU (owned by Uniqlo) was also great – I could’ve bought the whole store, but I restrained myself and picked up just a few bits. Heavily laden, I returned to the station and headed to a ticketing office. The lovely staff member helped me secure reserved seats with oversized baggage storage on the 8:33am Shinkansen to Odawara. Phew!

Back at the hotel, I stopped at FamilyMart for a few dinner essentials (Famichiki is a firm favourite of Jessie’s now), packed up our bags, and we all collapsed into bed – exhausted but happy. We’ve loved Kyoto – I wasn’t sold at first, but after seeing the more beautiful parts of Gion, and especially Arashiyama, I’m in love.

Tomorrow we’re off to Hakone Gora, with a quick stop in Odawara (Hakone is inland from there and there are no trains to get there)… fingers crossed for some Mt Fuji views and plenty of relaxation in our onsen!

See you soon for a double Hakone update.

❤ Laus