Two nights in the mountains with mist, magic, and mild chaos

Yesterday morning we packed up and said goodbye to our beautiful stay at Hotel Imagine in Kyoto. Sadly, we didn’t manage to grab one of their iconic tees—but honestly, I don’t think I could have squeezed one more thing into my bag anyway!

We lugged our three bags down to Kyoto Station (luggage forwarding didn’t quite work out this time—staff weren’t sure it would reach Hakone in time, and with only two nights booked, we didn’t want to risk it). After grabbing coffees and breakfast from a nearby Starbucks, we boarded the Shinkansen.

This Shinkansen trip felt different—crowded, with those oversized luggage spots we’d reserved partially taken by someone else. Luckily, Craig managed to squeeze one bag into the overhead compartment (which probably wasn’t allowed, but desperate times…). We had a businessman seated next to us who was quietly speaking into his headphones for most of the trip—probably grateful Jessie had her headphones on too.

A winding welcome to Hakone

We arrived in Odawara with intentions to check out the castle… but all the luggage lockers were taken, so we scrapped that plan (we’ll try again on the way back). Instead, we found another Starbucks (bless them) where we could sit with our bags in air-conditioned comfort while waiting for our hotel’s shuttle. The 40-minute ride to Hakone Gora was stunning—lush countryside, mountainous switchbacks, and roads that reminded us of NZ’s West Coast or Queenstown’s Devil’s Staircase.

Our hotel welcomed us with a help-yourself drinks station (champagne or juice) and a bucket of snacks: grape-flavoured lollies (the top-tier flavour in Japan) and long crunchy chips that tasted like cousins of Twisties. Check-in wasn’t until 3pm, so we ordered lunch and settled in – I ordered a Sakura tea, which was interesting… saltier than I’d imagined.

Private onsens, purple cocktails, and octopi

At 3pm sharp, we finally got to see our room. Jessie was buzzing. The space had a king bed (which we all ended up in—no bedding was provided for the pullout couch), yakatas (not quite as fun as Hotel Imagine’s), and best of all, a private onsen on the balcony.

I snuck in a nap, and then Jessie and I tested the onsen while Craig went for a walk to explore —absolute bliss. They’d given us cedar blocks to add to the water, and the scent, combined with the sound of the river tiering below the hotel, was just perfection.

Later we met Craig downstairs and tried the communal thermal foot bath, which is a thing in this area. It was hot. Jessie and I couldn’t fully submerge our feet, but we loved the concept—buzzer service for food and drinks while you soak.

The dinner restaurant cooked over a wood fire, which I was keen to watch, but we were in the family section, sadly out of view. Still, Craig and I tried the hotel’s signature cocktail (Indigo to match the hotel name), and I had a Japanese beef loin that hit the spot. Jessie’s meal came with hilarious little octopi-shaped bites—we thought they were Cheerios, but Craig reckoned they had a fishy taste.

Back to our room for a good night’s sleep and to gear up for our final full day in Hakone.

Pools, Picasso & a little pub magic

We woke up thinking it must be 4am—it was pitch black. Turns out the blackout blinds were just that good. We headed to the breakfast buffet (epic, and expensive), but I stuck to fruit and yoghurt after a rough night.

We forwarded our bags to our Tokyo hotel—no way we were repeating that Kyoto train crush—then had the hotel call us a taxi to Yunessun Hot Pools. It was only 2km away, but with Hakone’s hills, we weren’t walking it.

I’d seen Yunessun years ago on YouTube and couldn’t believe it was here! It’s an absolutely wild place—equal parts spa and theme park. On entry, you’re given a wristband that racks up purchases (very sneaky), and I had to rent a rashy to cover my tattoo (tattoos are still taboo here due to their association with crime/yakuza, so onsens require cover or no entry).

Inside? Aside from standard and thermal pools, they had:

The Wine Bath – yes, it smelled like wine.

The Authentic Coffee Bath – coffee grounds and all. Definitely a strong coffee scent.

The Sake Bath – aromatic and vibey.

The Rubber Ducky Bath – super sweet-smelling and packed with duckies.

The Dr. Fish Foot Bath – 5 hilarious minutes of squealing as fish nibbled the dead skin off of our feet (Jessie managed the final two minutes; Craig got swarmed).

After a few hours of splashy fun, we walked in the mist down to the Hakone Open Air Museum, arriving with just over an hour before closing. Absolutely worth it—stunning sculptures, peaceful music playing throughout, and gorgeous grounds. Jessie loved the Woods of Net, a kids’ play installation, and although I’m not the biggest Picasso fan, the dedicated gallery was impressive.

The steepest street & a silent LOTR screening

We’d spotted Gora Brewery on the way to the museum, so after, we hiked back uphill (misty, magical, exhausting) for a paddle of local beers—delicious. A flyer mentioned their restaurants nearby, so we trekked about 1.5km through more hills (one was almost Baldwin Street steep) to check one out. It was full, but a smaller “pub stop” round the back eventually let us in when a table cleared, after telling us we couldn’t come in that tonight. Not sure why they didn’t just say to wait, but hey—worth it.

Delicious pizza, more great beers, and Lord of the Rings on silent. Jessie was mesmerised by the scene with Merry and Pippin on Treebeard heading to war.

Finally, we got a DiDi (a miracle in itself lately!)—a cute London-style cab but modern—and has the driver drop us at 7/11 for dessert supplies. But the real magic? I got a call from reception once we were back. That same DiDi driver had returned… with my purse. I hadn’t even told him where we were staying! It had my credit card, cash, and Jessie’s Suica card in it. I offered to give him something as thanks, but he refused. Just incredible.

Japan continues to amaze me—not just the places, but the people too.

Tomorrow we head back to Tokyo, with one last stop at Odawara Castle. Four days left on this unforgettable trip.

❤ Laus