A Slow, Sunny Start

Today was Boboli Gardens day, and we were more than ready after a good sleep and a slower start to the morning. Being Sunday, things felt noticeably quieter – fewer people on the streets, a bit more breathing room.

We strolled through town and over the Ponte Vecchio, making our way to Oltrarno, where Palazzo Pitti stands – a grand Renaissance palace once home to the Medici family and other high society families. Behind it lie the Boboli Gardens, which were our destination.

It was a half-hour walk from our hotel, but we arrived a little early (entry times are strictly enforced), so we sat down across the road for a quick break. Craig had a coffee, I had a gelato and water – it was very hot! The woman serving us had a whole lot of attitude – we watched her roll her eyes behind a departing couple’s back, which we’ve seen a few times now… I wonder if some locals are just a bit overrun by the sheer number of tourists. It made me think – maybe, like Amsterdam, Florence could benefit from a visitor cap to help preserve the local vibe.

Grandeur and Gardens

When our entry time rolled around, we crossed the road to the ticket office, glad to skip the long line, and headed through. Parts of the palace (which require a separate ticket) were open to walk through, and they were incredibly grand. The gardens matched that energy – expansive, layered, and full of history.

Our ticket supposedly included audio guides (via an app), but frustratingly, the tickets didn’t provide any instructions, and the staff didn’t know either (we’d booked via Get Your Guide). So we missed out on that, but we still really enjoyed wandering, reading the signs, and taking it all in.

The gardens are set on a hill, so expect a lot of ups and downs, staircases, and shaded walkways. We spent two hours exploring, and easily could’ve stayed longer.

Some of our favourite spots:

A Tripe Quest… and a Sandwich Win

After the gardens, we crossed back over the river in search of lampredotto – a Florence street food made from slow-cooked tripe (the cow’s fourth stomach), served in a bun with salsa verde and dunked in broth. Unfortunately, being a Sunday, most vendors were closed – so we added it to the “tomorrow” list.

Instead, we lucked out with an amazing panini place specialising in roast pork. I went for the simplest version – just pork and salsa verde in a warm, toasted ciabatta – and it was INCREDIBLE. We sat on the roadside with other hungry people (and a few pigeons) and soaked it all in.

Scents, Sorbet & Something Special

Before heading back to the hotel, we made it to Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella – the ancient pharmacy founded by Dominican friars in the 16th century. It’s Europe’s oldest continually operating pharmacy – over 400 years old!

We waited briefly outside (they limit visitors at a time), and were offered free lemon sorbet while we queued – such a nice touch. Inside, the scent hit us immediately – rich, floral, citrusy, and overwhelming in the best way.

We were on a mission to find the diffuser scent used in our hotel room. A lovely staff member helped us and believed she found the right one – although in hindsight, it might have been the lobby scent, not the room one. Still, it was gorgeous, and we bought it in candle form (it’s the original scent commissioned by Catherine de Medici), along with a few other treats.

The purchasing process was fun too – you get a “shopping card” to scan items as you explore the various rooms, and then take it to a central cashier who prepares everything for you. Such a special, sensory experience, and one of our favourite stops.

A Dip and a Spritz

We got back to the hotel around 3pm to find that our room hadn’t been made up, and the laundry hadn’t been collected (turns out they don’t do laundry on Sundays – which was annoying, since these pieces needed professional care). That’s on me, I guess, for bringing things that can’t just go to a laundromat.

So while housekeeping sorted the room, we headed to the pool for a dip. The pool is a bit of an odd one, but it was blissfully cold. We hit the call button and ordered Aperol Spritzes, then sat by the pool and read. Honestly, it was lovely – we’ve been in full tourist mode and hadn’t taken much time to just relax.

Dinner at a Florentine Icon

For dinner, we had a 7pm reservation at Antico Ristorante Paoli 1827 – the oldest restaurant in Florence, full of charm and ceiling frescoes. The house specialty is Bistecca alla Fiorentina, and we were planning to just order that… but our waiter talked us into a shared pasta starter. We couldn’t say no.

We picked a bottle of Chianti (our favourite), and watched as a trainee nervously de-corked it while his supervisor muttered instructions in rapid-fire Italian. He nailed it, though!

The fettucine with truffle was divine – rich and earthy – and probably a mistake, because by the time our 1.2kg T-bone steak arrived (served very rare, as “medium-rare” here equals “rare” in NZ), we were already quite full. We only managed to eat half, which felt tragic given the price – but the meal was still fantastic.

Slight side-eye at the bread basket, though – they kept topping it up without asking, and we later saw we’d been charged €9 per refill. Classic.

Music Under the Arches, and a Wine Window

After dinner, we wandered in search of a wine door – a classic Florentine tradition where you knock (or ring a bell) on a tiny door and are served takeaway wine.

But first, we stumbled upon a total magical surprise – a full orchestra performing in the Loggia dei Lanzi, right in the open air! As someone who plays in musical ensembles, I couldn’t imagine a more incredible venue – old stone, soaring acoustics, a huge crowd gathering.

We found a nearby wine window with a charming server who had a cheeky smile and quick wit, and we took our cups of wine back to the piazza to enjoy the music. The orchestra kicked off with the William Tell Overture, followed by a soloist and then (to everyone’s delight) the Squid Game theme – amazing atmosphere!

Eventually we wandered back to the hotel, needing a relatively early night – we’re climbing the Duomo at 8am tomorrow, before packing up and heading to Rome – our final stop!

Buona notte!

❤️ Laus